Need for belonging: Exploring subcultural identity in the Chinese Lolita online community

This study explores the evolution of the Chinese Lolita fashion online communities. The inception of Lolita fashion in China began in the early 2000s and Lolita dressing culture has gained popularity with the development of digital media. We draw on 53 qualitative interviews, alongside ethnographic research, to understand Lolita participants’ perception of Lolita dressing culture and their experience with the Lolita online communities. We critique existing studies that classify Lolita dressing practice as a fashion or popular culture, and we argue that Chinese Lolita participants identify Lolita fashion participation as a subculture, with evidence of community building and identity construction involving rebellion against mainstream culture. This inquiry into the dynamics of digitally mediated communities formed by dedicated Lolita participants uncovers the evolution of Lolita online communities which exhibit a three-type typology: cohesive community, loose community and deconstructed community. We further critique the existing definitions and understanding of online communities. We argue that components such as a sense of belonging, alongside clear boundaries and rules, should still be integral to the definition of online communities. Lolita participants persistently desire a cohesive online community to attain a sense of belonging and to exhibit their subcultural identity.