Negotiating Identity: A Study of Lolita Fashion in Contemporary China

The research direction of this study is the Lolita fashion subculture within a globalised Chinese context. Through qualitative interviews and participant observations conducted with 53 Lolita participants of varying genders who have been involved in the Lolita subculture for durations ranging from 1 to 13 years, coupled with the author’s autoethnography, this study delves into the intricate process of subcultural identity formation, maintenance, and transformation. The exploration is focused on the intersections of Lolita participants’ subcultural identity with global cultural influences, mainstream gender norms, and commercialisation. The theoretical framework of this study is grounded in the principles of subcultural theories, particularly drawing upon concepts of hegemony and identity.

The research findings reveal several key insights. Firstly, the Lolita subculture in China is characterised by a unique process of subcultural identity construction that spans childhood, adolescence, and adulthood, influenced by globalised aesthetics and digital technology. Secondly, this study identifies stages of subcultural identity integration within the Lolita fashion, which illustrates the ongoing negotiation and rebellion to mainstream fashion and gender norms. Lastly, this study highlights that commercialisation has led to both the expansion and dilution of the Lolita fashion’s key concepts. This shift poses significant challenges to maintaining a cohesive subcultural identity, as increased commercial interests overshadow the original motivations of rebellion and uniqueness inherent in Lolita fashion. This thesis makes significant contributions and implications for the application of subcultural theories, the interaction between global and local dynamics, and subcultural participants’ negotiations of mainstream gender norms within the context of China. Moreover, this thesis pointed out the possible development direction of contemporary subculture under commercialisation.